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As the summer season
winds down I've found myself shifting away from the hiking and biking
I'd been enjoying and spending more time rock climbing instead. After
bouldering the week before, Hugh and I decided it was time to stop being
lazy, get on a rope, and climb some actual routes. We had a late
afternoon start, but with no sign of a storm we took advantage of the
beautiful weather and headed up the pass. |
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Using the guidebook
for directions, we located the cairn on the side of the road that marked
the climber's trail to the wall. The trail was steep and slippery.
Struggling upward in my sandals, I was panting by the time I reached the
wall. To our delight, nobody else was there, so Hugh and I harnessed up
and got ready to climb |
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Hugh led the first
pitch called "Ready," a straightforward 5.8. He made it look easy,
moving methodically, but without much apparent effort. "Are you going
to lower?", I asked. Hugh replied, "Nah dude, I'll just rap it. Off
belay" Immediately after setting up for the toprope he came sliding
down the now doubled rope. I tied in and started climbing. The route
was vertical but the holds were huge, and I took little time topping
out. |
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After getting
lowered down I decided I wanted to lead the pitch I had just climbed.
Given that my only previous lead had been 20-30 feet of five-nothing
climbing on Mt. Olympus, this was a big deal. With my draws ready,
hands chalked, and mind focused, I started up the pitch. Thankfully,
the first two bolts were on the easiest part of the climb, and I felt
entirely comfortable by the time I reached the trickier top section of
the route. I've never felt so focused climbing in my life! |
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Emboldened by the
first route, we tackled the next route, "Set," rated at 5.9. Hugh led
first, battling a dihedral with an overhanging bulge before traversing
left, reaching high, and climbing the last face to the top. It
definitely looked tricky for 5.9, but I psyched myself up for another
lead. I really felt in the zone on this climb. I grunted my way past
that overhanging bulge that formed the crux of the route and complete
led my second lead. Hugh liked this pitch so much he did it again on
toprope. |
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A couple other guys
(including Brian from Aspen Expeditions) showed up and started work on
"Ready," the first route we did. Although the light was fading and my
stomach was rumbling, I had Hugh string the rope from the top of the
last route on the wall, "Go!", a 5.10a. My legs were shaky and my arms
were achy, but I felt confident heading up the last climb of the day.
Like "Set," the bottom of this route is the most challenging part. The
holds were actually pretty good, however, and I had no more trouble with
"Go!" than the 5.9 we had just climbed. Hugh climbed it after me,
despite his plans to go bowling later that night. How he planned to hold
onto a bowling ball I have no idea. |
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Satisfied, we packed
up, bid farewell to the other climbers at the rock, and tried to make
our way back to the car without falling on the slippery trail (we came
close several times). From there, it was directly to Zane's for
burgers, beers, and some Rugby World Cup on TV. |
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